Oceans of golden dunes, moonscapes with bizarre rock formations and endless kilometres of rocky plains make up the Western Desert. An extension of the Sahara, it is neither one single landscape nor easily accessible.

The Western Desert is dotted with five oases, lying like islands in the ocean – Siwa, Baharia, Farafra, Dakhla and Kharga.

Oceans of golden dunes, moonscapes with bizarre rock formations and endless kilometres of rocky plains make up the Western Desert. An extension of the Sahara, it is neither one single landscape nor easily accessible. The Western Desert is dotted with five oases, lying like islands in the ocean – Siwa, Baharia, Farafra, Dakhla and Kharga. These are linked by a thousand-kilometre trail tracing a zigzag across the map.

Siwa : Stretching eighty kilometres in length and dotted with limestone outcrops, mineral springs and two salt lakes, Siwa has a culture based on dates and olives making it feel rather like the Garden of Eden. In the centre of the settlement of Shali, the oasis’ main town, stand some strange, ghostly ruins. These are all that remains of the old village, destroyed last century by torrential rains.

A few sandy paths lead to the Temple of Amen, site of the oracle consulted by Alexander the Great himself. Standing on an outcrop, the temple has not withstood the passage of time but a walk through its jagged ruins conjures up images of djinns which the Siwans believe are plentiful in this region. Alternatively, sit and admire the sea of palm trees stretched out below. Do not miss out on a swim in the slightly fizzy water of the spring pools. Some date from the time of the Roman occupation whilst others have been more recently constructed to irrigate the gardens.

Baharia : The four villages of this oasis are scattered around a depression surrounded by dunes topped with black volcanic rocks. Up until the Middle Ages, Baharia was an ideal stopping place for caravans from the Maghreb en route to Mecca.

Farafra : This is the smallest and least frequented of the five oases. Those who love tranquility and who yearn for solitude after the crowded Nile Valley should have no hesitation in heading for Farafra. Farafra lies on a plateau of white sand with pockets of green here and there concealing a few mud houses. Paths in the sand lead from Qasr el-Farafra, the biggest village, and crisscross the palm grove which provides shade from the dancing rays of the sun. Visitors should not miss a trip into the White Desert, around forty kilometres from the oasis. Sand and black rocks give way to strange limestone concretions in the shape of pyramids, mushrooms and icebergs, as far as the eye can see. The landscape is a magical sight at dawn and sunset.

Dakhla : It is almost possible to forget about the desert here, as the land is so fertile: Dakhla appears as a succession of palm groves, orchards and market gardens. A number of lovely excursions – involving some distance and therefore requiring transport – leave from Mut and lead to some interesting sites: the deserted citadel of El-Qasr, the necropolis at Balat, the temple at Deir el-Haggar and pharaonic remains at El Musawaka.

Kharga : Kharga is worth the detour thanks to its ancient sites, namely the Temple of Hibis, sole architectural evidence of the Persian occupation of Egypt, and the Christian necropolis of Bagawat. Perched on the side of a hill, the necropolis contains several hundred tombs dating from the fifth century. Some have preserved their wall paintings depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments.