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Crocodile Watching
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The
huge, deadly looking crocodiles with dagger-like teeth are seen in the
wild, right here in Goa in the narrow creek that intrudes into the thick
mangrove jungle near the small village of Cumbarjua.
Most crocodiles that
live in the Cumbarjua canal spend their days sunbathing on the muddy
banks of the canal, watching visitors pass by in their canoes. The canal
is a 15 km long stretch of water located about 20 minutes drive away
from Panaji. It links the two biggest rivers in Goa - the Zuari and
Mandovi.
The Cumbarjua canal is
the only place in Goa where crocodiles can actually be seen in the wild.
Some stray crocodiles are sometimes also found in places like Chorao,
Tivim and Quepem.
On the canal, there is
a thriving and vibrant mangrove habitat which serves as spawning ground
for fish, prawns, and mollusks. This marine-life-rich ecosystem also
sustains a healthy population of birdlife and crocodiles. The population
of crocodiles in the Cumbarjua canal is currently estimated to be
between 40-50.
Interestingly, the
crocodiles found in Goa (Crocodylus palustris) are actually freshwater
crocodiles - called 'freshies' - and they have actually adapted
themselves to surviving in the saline waters of the Canal. This
extremely rare phenomenon does not occur anywhere else on the Indian
subcontinent.
Called 'mugger'
locally, they are pretty harmless unlike their salt-water cousins who
prey on livestock and sometimes humans. Most of the Cumbarjua crocodiles
are used to human presence so much so that the local children even swim
in the canal with the crocodiles nearby.
There has been no case
of human killing by the crocodiles here, in recent living memory. If
anybody ventures too close, they just jump into water and move away. In
the village of Durbhatwadi on the canal, the crocs are even worshipped
on the day of the new moon in January as the guardian spirit of the
community.
Being cold-blooded,
crocodiles need to spend a lot of time in the sun to keep themselves
warm. Hence you can see them sunbathing on the muddy shores of the
Cumbarjua canal. The greyish-brown skin of the crocodiles ensures they
are extremely well camouflaged on the mud banks.
These fresh-water
crocodiles are basically scavengers who also prey on sick fish and birds
as well as crabs, dogs, cats, and - the very big ones on buffaloes or
deer. They may even eat rocks to act as a ballast and help them stay
underwater for up to an hour at a stretch. But they don't eat much and
get hungry only once every two weeks or so.
Crocodiles
are a hole-nesting species, with the eggs laid in a pit away from the
water's edge and guarded by the mother crocodile. Out of the typical
clutch of about 30 eggs, only two or three hatchlings are expected to
survive, the others becoming snacks for predators like mongoose, rats,
ants, birds, and even some humans who consider crocodile eggs a
delicacy. A full grown adult can grow up to 4 mt in length. To
communicate, they bark like a dog or let out a bellow.
The life span of a
crocodile is between 60 to 80 years. During the mating season which
lasts from November to February, the crocodiles make a spectacular sight
thrashing, jaw-slapping and blowing of water bubbles.
Crocodiles have been
hunted worldwide for their skin and in India they are classified along
with tigers as highly endangered.
The most wellknown
crocodile spotting outfit in Goa is operated by Harvey and Neil Alvares.
They arrange boat tours for the visiting tourists.

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