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Set
amid idyllic hills, it provides a welcome respite from the searing
heat of Rajasthan. The modest sized town is home to one the
wealthiest temples in India. Town it self is famous for it's
exuberant festivals, miniature paintings, jewellery and above all,
it's sweets. Threat of cholesterol and calories have yet to deter
the culinary experts of this town who add sugar and butter to
almost all dishes!!
Life
in the town revolves around the "Haveli" term used for
all the temples of the "Pushti Marga". This is one of
the most colourful sects within the devotional side of Hinduism.
It also happens to be one of the few that do not advocate
renunciation for spiritual growth. It is this worldly, practical
and realistic view of life that lends itself to the colourfulness
of the sect.
Only
42 km. north of Udaipur, Nathadwara is easily reached by plane or
car. Constant stream of pilgrims has resulted in plentiful supply
of transport and accommodation at Nathadwara. Cheap and cheerful
rooms start at 50p per night, moving up to high quality
accommodation at £20 per night. Price of accommodation rises as
you move away from centre of Town. Reasonable rooms, with on suite
toilet and bath, can be easily found for £5 per night. The more
luxurious, air-conditioned hotels, are mainly situated out of
town. Restaurants in town cater for a wide range of vegetarian
tastes, however, it is illegal to consume alcohol within the town
limits.
The
Havali is the centre of attraction in the Town. Its inner sanctum
is opened only eight times a day when devotees throng to catch a
glimpse of the sacred form of the Lord Shrinathji. Rest of the
time, it is relatively free of crowds, ideal for those wanting to
explore the beauty of Rajasthani art and architecture. The entire
place seems to be in a time capsule, still living the regal life
long abandoned by Maharajahs of India. Temple servants still wear
the clothes and costumes of the bygone era, serving the Lord of
Nathadwara as the beloved prince and darling of Nanadaraj and
Yashodaji.
At
regular intervals, classical music is played live in its many
halls as pilgrims float through its perfumed marble halls and
courtyards. Pankhwalas still manually pull on the large fans to
cool the interior. Drums and trumpets are still played to announce
the mid-day's "Royal Darshan". Like all rajput palaces/
mansions, the Havali is built around several split level
courtyards. The solid white exterior hides the airiness achieved
by this device. All doorways are painted and are often flanked by
drawings of elephants, horses, beautiful maidens and doorkeepers.
Shrinathji,
the main deity of the sect, resides in regal splendour, always
immaculately dressed and jewelled. Exquisitely worked jewels, some
dating back to pre-Mogul India, are worn by Shrinathji on daily
basis. Here at least the jewels are not kept behind glass, but
used for what they were intended. Everything in the inner temple,
from china to silver/ gold-ware, paintings, wall hangings, clothes
and furniture, are of the finest quality. Havali itself employs
some 1000 people, whilst rest of the town thrives on the business
given directly or indirectly by the Havali and the pilgrims.
The
best thing about the place is its mystic tranquillity. The feeling
of peace and spirituality seems to rise above the humdrum of the
town. Numerous groves, gardens, parks and fields outside the town
provide perfect escape from the crowds, you can also cool off in
the river Banas nearby. Town itself is small enough to be explored
on foot. Rickshaws and horse carts are available for those who do
not wish to brave the heat of Rajasthan.
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