Kumbalanghi in Kerala - Rural Tourism

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		Jageshwar Uttarakhand
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Kumbalanghi - Kerala

A canvas of nature’s most captivating brush strokes Kumbalanghi is an island for simple joys, just off Kochi. The village has retained its rural ambience and is the perfect getaway from urban chaos. Laze around the expansive Vembanad Lake, go for a leisurely boat ride in the canals and backwaters, exclaim at the variety of mangroves, drop jaw at the neat chequered paddy fields and coconut plantations, understand boat building, and bid at the traditional auction for fish, prawn and crab. Then, with your senses satiated, allow your hosts to feed you from a wide range of traditional recipes. Sit in the backyard of your home-stay and enjoy the unforgettable sunrise or sunset. If local culture interests you, ask for a performance of the foot stomping Chavittunadakam, the valorous Parisamuttukali, Kolkali, Margamkali or the gentle Thiruvathira.

Local Culture Cuisine: The cuisine of Kerala is linked in all its richness to the history, geography, demography and culture of the land. Many of Kerala’s Hindus are vegetarian by religion, while the large minorities of Muslims and Christians are usually non-vegetarian. In addition to historical diversity, the cultural influences, particularly the large percentages of Muslims and Syrian Christians have also contributed unique dishes and styles to Kerala cuisine. Like other Indian cuisines, Kerala cuisine can be spicy. Coconuts grow in abundance in Kerala and grated coconut and coconut milk are widely used in dishes and curries. Kerala’s long coastline and strong fishing industry ensures several fish, prawn and crab based delicacies, particularly in the Christian cuisine. Historical and Cultural Influences Pre-independence Kerala was split into the princely states of Travancore and Kochi in the south and the Malabar district in the north. The erstwhile split is reflected in the cuisines of each area. Malabar has an array of non-vegetarian dishes such as pathiri (rice based pancake), porotta (layered flatbread) and the Kerala variant of the popular biriyani. In contrast, traditional Travancore cuisine consists of a variety of vegetarian dishes using many vegetables and fruits that are not commonly used in curries elsewhere in India including plantains, bitter gourd, taro, colocasia, ash gourd, etc. Breakfast Kerala cuisine offers many delicious vegetarian breakfast dishes that are relatively unknown outside the state. These include Puttu (a cylindrical dish made of rice powder and grated coconut) and kadala (a curry made of chick peas), idli (fluffy rice pancakes) and sambar, dosa and chutney, idiyappam (string hoppers), paalappam, etc. Idiyappam and Paalappam are accompanied by mutton, chicken or vegetable stew of a curry or beef or fish moli (the most common dish is black pomfret in a coconut based sauce). Lunch and Dinner The staple food of Kerala is rice. Many people in Kerala prefer parboiled rice (rice made nutritious by boiling it with rice husk). Kanji, a kind of rice porridge, is also popular. Tapioca is popular in central Kerala and in the highlands. Rice or tapioca is usually consumed with one or more curries. Accompaniments with rice may include upperis (dry curries),rasam, chips, buttermilk, etc. Vegetarian dinners usually consist of multiple courses, each involving rice, one main dish (sambar, rasam or pulicherri) and one or more side dishes. Kerala cooking uses coconut oil almost exclusively. Popular vegetarian dishes include sambar, aviyal, kaalan, theeyal, thoran, pulicherri, olan, ericherri, puli inji, payaru, kappa, etc. Desserts in Kerala could form a meal in themselves. They are made of rice, milk, sugar, coconut, jaggery, cardamom, etc. Crisp chips of banana, jackfruit and tapioca are often served accompanying the main meal. Fairs & Festivals Onam is the main festival which comes in August-September to celebrate harvest and celebrates the return of the mythical king Mahabali. Most houses will have a decoration made of flowers in front of their houses to welcome Mahabali. In 2008, Thiruonam falls on 11th September. After that the celebrations continue for up to ten days right across Kerala. Christmas and Easter are also celebrated with gaiety. The New Year, Vishu, falls in mid-April. Ramzan and Bakr-id are celebrated as per the lunar calendar. Dance: There are several dance forms in this part of Kerala and Kumbalanghi has its fair share of dance troupes. Chavittunadakam is a vigorous foot stomping dance done by men with elaborate costumes that dates back some 400 years. The lyrics are in old Tamil and revolve around the Crusades! Thiruvathira is the harvest dance, done by women wearing the traditional ivory coloured mundus. It is performed around a lamp and is a series of gentle movements. Parisumuttukali is a valorous energetic dance performed by young men with a sword and shield in their hands. Dance: Tiruvathira is a traditional dance form

Art & Craft Kumbalanghi has several talented individuals who are interest in craft. Ms Sheena does beautiful machine embroidery on saris and can quickly embroider a pattern on your shirt or hankie. Ms Thangamma and Ms Thresa do exquisite embroidery by hand, again mainly on saris. However, if you can leave something for them to embroider overnight, they would be quite happy to do it for you. Mr Joseph makes model boats and Chinese fishing nets and very enthusiastically explains the different boats to you. Ms Susamma and Lovejin transform dried coconut husk into handy wine bottle holders and flower vases. The traditional craft in Kumbalanghi that has been practiced for generations is the art of making the traditional boats. Stop by on your morning stroll and watch the boats being made. There are two small plants in Kumbalanghi where coconut oil is extracted. Given the abundance of coconut trees, you are bound to see the plant in action on most days. Pick up a bottle of fresh coconut oil on your way out.

Places to See Well connected to mainland Kochi, Kumbalanghi is the perfect destination for tourists who value the simplicity and beauty of rural life. This coastal village offers some of the most scenic views of the sea, canals, backwaters, mangroves, paddy fields and coconut plantations. The village has taken a decision that they do not want the kind of sky-scraper development seen in nearby urban Kochi. So they have agreed not to build large resource guzzling resorts. Instead, they offer home-stays with several families in Kumbalanghi. This will ensure that each time you come back, your experience will be totally new all over again. Take in beautiful sunsets from the Kumbalanghi Bridge. Stroll along the village park. Boat along mangroves that support a unique eco-system. Visit the paddy fields where pokkali organic rice is grown. Marvel at the poomeen, the flying fish. Or set out for a bird-watching cruise in a country boat. Open a new window to nature… Spend a day in Kumbalanghi village itself soaking in its history. Visit the St George’s Cathedral for its unique architecture. Understand tolerance in the Narayana Guru Madom. Enjoy the beauty of the Primary School Building. Watch a traditional boat being made, by hand, with chisel and hammer. The best way to start your day at Kumbalanghi is at the fish auction centre, a short boat-ride away. You can bid for fresh, just-caught fish and take it back for your host, who will definitely cook it for your lunch. The process of bidding is rapid and in Malayalam. However, as in other parts of the world, the language of money is understood by all! All along the backwaters, you can see the picturesque Chinese fishing nets. Try your hand at one of them, maybe you will be lucky! There are several dance forms in this part of Kerala and Kumbalanghi has its fair share of dance troupes. Ask your hosts to organise a performance for you. Saving the best for the last, if for nothing else, visit Kumbalanghi for its food. Sea food lovers have an edge here given the wide variety. However, vegetarians can also look forward to some amazing feasting starting from breakfast itself. Cycle around the village to work off the calories, if you must! Or better still, go for a moonlit cruise when you are too full to walk! The Kumbalanghi Gram Panchayat (local administration) has initiated a zero waste movement in the village to ensure that guests enjoy the beauty of the village rather than get put off by heaps of garbage. Kumbalanghi is an enchanting place to be, with its ethnic cuisine and simple yet beautiful environs. A farmstead stay at the village is an enchanting experience by itself. So, if you are keen to steal away from the madness of urban life, Kumbalanghi is the place to be.

How to Reach Kumbalanghi is well connected to mainland Kochi (earlier known as Cochin) by a bridge. Kochi has an international airport and a seaport, and is well connected by air, road and rail to cities all over India.
BY BUS:: From the Kochi airport, Kumbalanghi is 52 kms by road. The easiest way is to take a taxi from the pre-paid taxi counter in the arrival area in the airport. The route is via Ernakulam, towards the Thopumbady BOT Bridge, after which you turn left. It is approximately 5 km to Kumbalanghi from here. Through the village of Palluruthy sign boards pointing to Kumbalanghi are visible. Opposite Prateeksha theatre take the right turn, cross the bridge across the backwaters and you reach Kumbalanghi. (In July 2008 this trip cost Rs.733/-.) Currently there are no buses available directly from the airport.
BY AIR: Kochi has an international airport and a seaport, and is well connected by road and rail to points all over India. BY TRAIN: If you come by train get down at Ernakulam South Station which is 15 km away from Kumbalanghi. There is a prepaid counter for taxis. Ask for one and take the same route as above. BY ROAD: Buses are available just outside the station at a distance of half a kilometre. Look for a bus sign that says Kumbalanghi. The frequency is about once in one hour. Buses to Perumpadapu are more frequent and are available once in 10 minutes. From Perumpadapu buses to Kumbalanghi are available every ten minutes or autos from Perumpadapu will cost you around Rs.15/-. If you get down at Ernakulam North Station, it is 17 km to Kumbalanghi. There is a prepaid counter for autorickshaws here. And a taxi stand outside the station. If you want to take a bus, you will need to go the Ernakulam South Station and then proceed as given above.