Gadwal
is known for its world famous handloom zari sarees ("Gadwal sarees").
The local weavers are talented enough to weave the 5.5 meters of saree
fabric in such a way that it can be folded down to the size of a small
match box. Gadwal Sarees have been very popular since the 1930s. These
are cotton sarees with an attached silk border and silk pallu. Gadwal
handlooms are well known for the durability of the colours used in the
yarn. The mixture of colour gives the durability. Usually Gadwal
handlooms are made in cotton and silk. The count used in weaving gives
the softness and hardness of the fabric. Count means the number of
threads used in the length and breadth for weaving known as warp and
weft respectively. Each and every thread of the Gadwal saree is hand
woven. Each weaver works from home with all his / her family helping in
different steps of the process. It requires approximately 4-8 days
(depending on the variety of saree) of continuous efforts of two persons
for weaving a saree. The core materials used for manufacturing the saree
are Silk / Cotton and Zari. The silk border is either Tussar or mulberry
and the body is often of unbleached cotton. It may also have colored
cotton or silk checks. Pure silk versions of Gadwal sarees are also
available.
Dyeing
The
process of manufacturing a Gadwal Saree starts with dyeing the silk /
cotton yarn. Dyeing is the coloring process by dipping the yarn in the
boiled color water in very high temperature, higher the temperature
durability of color is also higher. Dyeing of the yarn is done making
sure that the color is done uniformly throughout the yarn and it doesn't
affect the quality of the yarn. The coloring process is a very crucial
step in getting a good saree. The colors are applied as per the
specifications of the designers and also some times as per the orders
from customers who orders for a designer Saree. After coloring the silk
yarn is dried in shade. Drying yarn in sun can be harmful to yarn.
Weaving
After
the silk yarn is dried, it is rolled over small sticks. After dyeing and
drying the yarn it is converted to thread
and is
loaded as warp and then it is loaded into the loom for actual weaving.
Gadwal Sarees are traditionally woven in the interlocked-weft technique
(called Kuppadam or Tippadam locally) and often with Kotakomma (also
called Kumbam) in the borders and they are known as a Kotakomma or
Kumbam saree.
Design
The design required on the saree is
initially drawn in a computer and then this is punched into a card and
then these cards are loaded in Jacard in the loom. The needles in the
Jacard will control the weft being weaved, thus producing the design in
the fabric.
Decline of Handloom Industry
Once famous Gadwal Handloom products are
now becoming extinct due to the low wages prevailing in the industry.
Previously Gadwal was full of talented weavers who used to do magic in
the looms to produce the best handloom products. Now you can see very
small number of weavers is actually in the profession. It is informed by
the locals that presently Gadwal sarees are weaved somewhere else and
sold as Gadwal Sarees. There is an emergency situation to take necessary
action to protect the traditional Gadwal Sarees.
Weaver's Choice
The weavers demand a responsible role by
the government to protect the handloom industry by providing subsidy for
yarn and a rehabilitation package for the weavers who have suffered due
to the rains. They hope that if the government takes the responsibility
to support the handloom industry by way of showcasing and marketing the
handloom products, then only the industry can survive or else the
present situation has started the end of handloom industry in Gadwal.
The new generation is also not interested in the profession due to the
hard labour and long hours to bring out the finished product, but the
returns are not lucrative to make them stay in the profession.
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